On the nose in the beginning, The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Saint-Vivant 2002 starts like a spicy dance – think Cabernet Sauvignon or a Pinot Noir from the Americas. Clive and cinnamon join the party, making the taste buds do a double take. The finale, though, is a bit of a rebel, with tannins playing it rough. As I tasted this wine blind, I first thought it was a 2003. 95 points.
Fast-forward half an hour, and the wine’s mood mellows. Once daring and exotic, it gracefully levels out, revealing a more harmonious balance of fruits. It’s like the wine decided to be a bit sassy, even becoming a little bit mean.
Initially, you might think, “Let’s pop it open and enjoy!” But hold your horses. After 4 or 5 hours, it hits a dry spell. An enigma best savoured either after a brief three-hour aeration or, for those with the luxury of time, a decade and a half hence.